Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
